I decided to go to Hualien, which is on the east side of the country not quite in the middle on the coast. As soon as I looked up pictures of the area I knew I had to go. This area is also my dad's favorite place in Taiwan and I was also curious to find out why. I booked my stay with Cave Hostel, which was recommended by a friend of mine for their comfy beds and chill atmosphere. In order to get down to Hualien I had to book a train. However, I could not do another ride on the High Speed Rail like I did for Tainan because it only runs on the west side of the country. I had to book a regular train ticket from Taiwan Railways. I had a friend help me out with that part. After some effort with dates and times, I finally had my tickets and hostel booked from April 5th-7th.
The day came and I was ready to get going! I went down to the train station and waited for my train. I was standing on the platform waiting for my train to arrive, which was suppose to be at any second. I had a strange feeling I should check the platform again. I turned around a corner to check the screen and noticed that they had changed the platform last minute. Luckily it was the train that had arrived just a few moments behind me and I waved someone down to let me in. I caught it just in time! A little stressful to start my trip off, but it's all good. I settled into my seat and relaxed as it was going to be a four hour trip. I was in luck as I had a window seat and I could really enjoy the amazing scenery of the massive green mountains.When I arrived I decided to walk to my hostel rather than take a taxi or figure out a bus. Unlike in Tainan the walk was only going to be 30 minutes, not 3 hours. It would be a good way to see the city anyway, and after sitting for so long it would be nice to get some exercise in. I arrived to the hostel and got checked in. This hostel has key cards for all of their doors, which was nice. I'll say this about the two hostels I've stayed in. The one in Tainan was definitely more homey, but this one was more polished. The bed was way more comfy than the one in Tainan (by far. I had no issues sleeping due to bedding). This bed also did a better job at blocking out the light made by the room.
After a little rest and recharge (of both mind and phone), I went out to check out a seaside park. I wanted to see if the color of the ocean was just doctored in the photos I had seen or if it was for real. I walked on down there and found a pretty big park. It was warm, but very windy and cold. I had to choose between holding my umbrella in front of me or have my glasses totally covered in the misty rain. I traded on and off, but still it was a pretty park with one downside...there was construction along the bike path next to the beach so they had erected a wall for as far as I could see. Deciding it couldn't go on forever, I picked a direction and started walking. I eventually found a break in the fence as well as a look out point and got to enjoy the crashing waves.
After spending some time at the beach, I was conveniently about a block away from the Dongdamen night market. I headed over just about at the start of the opening. This was like none other night market I have been to in Taiwan. Usually they follow a familiar pattern. Temporary roll away stalls and tight spaces along a street with other businesses and entrances to homes. Not to mention hard to find trash cans. This one, however, was completely different. The vendors were more like settled into garages. Permanent installments. The amount of space down the aisles was crazy. I got there really early, but even as it filled up more and more I had no trouble moving at a normal pace. The food was great and there were many options. They also had a good amount of carnival games as well. It felt like more like a county fair back home. Side note, to anyone curious about the photo in the middle, they are stalls with piles of raw meats and vegetables. You get a bowl, pick what you want, and give it to the vendor and they cook it up for you. I was scared to do it at first, but now I love it. I don't love the intestines you can get, but everything else is good.
After this I was pretty exhausted and fighting a headache, so I headed back to the hostel. While I was at the hostel I asked one of the employees there how to get to Taroko Gorge, which is what I was planning on doing the next day. I had only seen one photo of the gorge and knew I had to go there no matter what. I didn't know what else there was to do, but that's where I wanted to go. She had told me, "well, you can take this bus, then this bus. Or you could go on an all day tour." Uh. Yeah. Absolutely I want to go on a tour. I didn't want to mess with the bus. I found out how much it was, that they would pick me up from the hostel, and that they would take me all over the gorge to the most famous sites. Hell yeah! After that I ended up working on my cross stitch project and watching an episode to one of my shows.
The next morning I had discovered that the rainy weather I had been anticipating had turned into a very warm and sunny day. What luck for me! The tour bus picked me up and I discovered one flaw in this plan. The tour is all in Chinese. No matter. I don't need to know where we are going. It ended up being kind of like a surprise anyway as we would randomly stop, be told to get off, and the driver would use his phone to translate where we were and when to come back to the bus. The first stop was amazing. We stopped at Qixingtan Beach, which I can confirm that the color of the ocean was just astonishing and I really could have sat there much longer than permitted.
I don't know the name of our next stop, but we were only here for about 10-15 minutes.
Our third stop I was a little put off with at first. The driver told me (remember, through a translator) that we would be doing an hour hike next. Um. I did not sign up to do no hike, buddy. As it turns out, he meant he would be back in an hour and it was a path to follow as far as we'd like to go just as long as we were back in time. This trail was carved out by the aboriginal people long ago and is very previous to the Taiwanese people in the area. Well they definitely did a good job! This trail was partially carved out of the cliff and followed the river. It was so beautiful!
After this we stopped to get lunch. The driver took us to the CYC Tienhsiang Youth Activity Center where it was cheaper to eat here than in the main part of the little town we were in. They had a buffet style lunch where you pick your main meat and then load up on the other good stuff. It's a good thing I like the food here, or else I wouldn't have been eating much.
Our next stop was also a pretty awesome (and stressful haha) part of the tour. We went to this part of the gorge where these tunnels had been carved out for traffic, but there was plenty of room for pedestrians to walk...with helmets! For safety! The stressful part of this, was that when it was time to go back to the bus I was standing there where the bus had dropped us off at and it was no where to be seen. I get a sinking feeling in my stomach that I was not where I was suppose to be. I get a call from someone who could speak English on the tour saying that the bus was all the way through 3-4 tunnels and they were waiting for me. Damn. So I booked it back where I had just been and beyond. I got a second call wondering what my status was, but there wasn't much I could do. I was going as fast as I could without a full on sprint. Eventually I got there and the driver met me there. He said he was sorry because he forgot to tell me where to meet. It was all good, but for sure stressful and I felt bad about holding everyone up.
Alright so after that fiasco we were off! Finally! We arrived at the place that caused me to go "I have to go there" in the first place. We arrive at the Eternal Spring Shrine. This place seemed like such a dream in the photos! And I can tell you it is so beautiful to look at. Not only do you get to look at it, with it's beautiful yellow and blue roofs and waterfall, but you can actually go up into it! It was a very memorable experience.
Alright, now came for the last stop on our tour. Qingshui Cliff. This was another place that I wanted to stop and see for myself. It was pretty crowded here with people taking pictures, but it was totally worth seeing.
After this I was dropped off at that same night market I had gone to before. However, I had decided I was going to go to a restaurant that was highly recommended to me called Salt Lick. This place was amazing! American BBQ all the way. I had been planning to order BBQ, however I was seduced by mac n cheese and hot wings. Both of which I haven't had since I left home. It was so good I could cry. I wish this place was in Taipei! Or not...I would go quite a lot if they were.
The next day I simply packed up and headed off to the train station. It was another four hour ride but luckily I watched a movie on my phone to pass the time. Reflecting back I can agree with something that my dad had said. He told me when I moved out here that if I want to actually see Taiwan I needed to get out of Taipei and see the country. He was right. It was a great trip and so beautiful. It reminded me a lot of Guatemala, although those mountains have nothing on the mountains of Taiwan. Wow wow wow (as I think in my Gordon Ramsey voice).
